food editors,  food history,  food journalism,  Jane Nickerson,  journalism history,  Ruth Ellen Church

Green Goddess Dressing History

I recently read about food editor Judyrae Kruse retiring from the Herald, a newspaper in Everette, Washington. According to her retirement story:

“To read Judy’s column is to read a diary of life in Snohomish County: Recipes for slow-cooker stew and make-ahead casseroles followed the school year. She shared an idea for dinner pulled from the pantry after a week of snow and ice. When the weather warmed, the recipes cooled: crisp salads and gelatin desserts, ideas for grilling.

Occasionally, without warning, a recipe would strike a chord. Who knew Snohomish County residents ate so much Green Goddess dressing? After a request, the deluge of recipes continued for months.”

Green Goddess dressing has a long history. According to this history, the dressing goes back to the 1920s in San Francisco:

“The Green Goddess Dressing was created at the Palace Hotel in 1923 by Executive Chef Phillip Roemer. Chef Roemer created the dressing for a banquet held at the Palace. The event was honoring actor George Arliss who was the lead in William Archer’s hit play The Green Goddess.”

In the 1965 version of her cookbook, Mary Meade’s Magic Recipes, Chicago Tribune food editor Ruth Ellen Church included a recipe for Green Goddess Dressing (pg 271). She noted that it was good on seafood or greens.

In 2008, the New York Times ran an article about Jane Nickerson’s 1948 recipe for Green Goddess dressing.

This 2010 article noted variations on the Green Goddess dressing in San Francisco area restaurants.

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