food journalism
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New Mary Meade (Ruth Ellen Church) Cookbook
This cookbook written by Mary Meade (the pen name of Ruth Ellen Church) arrived on Friday. Church wrote an amazing number of cookbooks while the food editor of the Chicago Tribune from 1936 to 1974. This cookbook, The Modern Homemaker Cookbook, was published in 1966. I am currently collecting material for a conference paper on Church’s career. Her reporting and writing demonstrate that food journalism was more complex than the historical record has shown.
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Food Editor Ruth Ellen Church
Yesterday I read about longtime Chicago Tribune food editor Ruth Ellen Church – who often wrote under the name Mary Meade. She was the food editor from 1936 to 1974. She was also known as the country’s first wine editor. She graduated from Iowa State University in 1933 with a degree in food and nutrition journalism. The photo above is from the Special Collections at that University. I plan to find out what information they have about her college years. She published many cookbooks during her career that I am hoping to track down. Sadly, she was murdered in 1991 at the age of 81. Here is the New York…
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Jane Nickerson & the United States of Arugula
The popular book, the United States of Arugula, includes several references to the New York Times first food editor, Jane Nickerson. In it, author David Kamp described the 1950s “emergence of a true food establishment in America, a small group of New York-based sophisticates who, via newspaper columns, magazine work, and cookbooks, had national even international reach.” He included in this group James Beard, McCalls’s food editor Helen McCully, Associated Press food editor Cecily Brownstone, Clementine Paddleford of the Herald Tribune and Nickerson. He wrote that the members of this group, “kept one another’s counsel, exchanged gossip, and stood united in opposition to the quick-bake, canned-soup mores of the domestic…
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Jane Nickerson manuscript
I have been working on my manuscript about NYT food editor Jane Nickerson. The story of Nickerson’s resignation from the newspaper was explained in Craig Claiborne’s memoir, A Memoir with Recipes: A Feast Made for Laughter (New York: Doubleday & Co., 1982). He wrote that at the beginning of 1957, she told the Times that “for reasons for family” she would be resigning from the newspaper as of September 1. Claiborne, who became the NYT food editor following Nickerson, wrote: “I was a bit startled at the news because of my respect for Jane as a journalist and also because I knew of her devotion to the job. She was…
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Bringing Back Home Ec
Last week, the NY Times ran an editorial about reintroducing home ec as a way to fight obesity. Here is a link to the story. As I have written: For too long, women’s pages, which included food, have been looked at as sections that simply reinforced a traditional role for women. This was once how home economics was viewed, too. It was simply a place that reinforced women’s traditional roles. As one home economics scholar wrote, “Home economics has not fared well at the hands of historians. Until recently women’s historians largely dismissed home economics as little more than a conspiracy to keep women in the kitchen.” In recent years,…
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More Jane Nickerson Article Analysis
I am going over my clips from Jane Nickerson’s work at the New York Times and have found clear evidence of her “food as news” work. (This goes counter to the credit that too many historians give later NYT food editor Craig Claiborne.) Take for example, the above article from August 14, 1946. In it, Nickerson writes: “Potatoes have been pressed into service as a substitute so that more grain and flour can be sent to starving people.” She goes on to give several sample recipes using potatoes.
