food journalism,  journalism history,  ruth gray

Food critics in the women’s pages

The Los Angeles Times published an interesting piece in its food section yesterday. This is the lead:”Well, that was interesting. A couple of days before Christmas, one of the owners of the new Beverly Hills restaurant Red Medicine created a firestorm by confronting Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila while she was waiting for a table, snapping her picture, kicking her and her party out of the restaurant and then posting the picture on the Internet for all to see.

By the next morning, more than 15 years of working to remain anonymous were ruined.”

Typically, food critics remain anonymous. (These reviews were found in the women’s pages.) Here are the food critics guidelines from the Association of Food Journalists. The organization was created in the 1970s to reinforce ethics in food reporting. Its first president was Peggy Daum – the food editor of the Milwaukee Journal.

Often, the food editor of the women’s page was also the restaurant critic. One example was Ruth Gray.

Caption: Picnicking atop the Bayfront Tower are from left, rear table, Malcolm and Ruth Gray, Stanley Brezic and Patricia Robinson and (front table) Marian Coe Brezic and June and Dick Bothwell.February 1975.

Ruth Gray was the food editor and the restaurant critic for the St. Petersburg Times. She wore hats and scarves and ducked inside the ladies room to take notes and stay inconspicuous, according to her obit.

Some restaurants had her photo on the wall in the kitchen. One server called her by name, saying the meal was on the house. She didn’t write the review.

One unlucky restaurant named its crab sandwich after her.

Gray may have been in disguise yet her name was well known. This is what she wrote when she retired: “On Feb. 28 Ruth Gray retired after 12 years as the St. Petersburg Times restaurant critic.

“Oh, did I wake you up?“ (Yes, she did.) “I just have one little question to ask. Aunt Bessie is coming for a visit, and what restaurant would you suggest for us?“ (How about Bob’s Greasy Spoon, lady?)

That’s how it is when you write a restaurant column. The questions are sure to come no matter where you are. At work, at parties, at department stores (when they see your credit card and your name) and even doctors’ offices. I once found myself confined to a hospital for a few days, and during a delicate diagnostic procedure the doctor asked me about restaurants. Next time I’ll send him a bill.”

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food journalism,  journalism history,  ruth gray

Food critics in the women’s pages

The Los Angeles Times published an interesting piece in its food section yesterday. This is the lead:”Well, that was interesting. A couple of days before Christmas, one of the owners of the new Beverly Hills restaurant Red Medicine created a firestorm by confronting Times restaurant critic S. Irene Virbila while she was waiting for a table, snapping her picture, kicking her and her party out of the restaurant and then posting the picture on the Internet for all to see.

By the next morning, more than 15 years of working to remain anonymous were ruined.”

Typically, food critics remain anonymous. (These reviews were found in the women’s pages.) Here are the food critics guidelines from the Association of Food Journalists. The organization was created in the 1970s to reinforce ethics in food reporting. Its first president was Peggy Daum – the food editor of the Milwaukee Journal.

Often, the food editor of the women’s page was also the restaurant critic. One example was Ruth Gray.

Caption: Picnicking atop the Bayfront Tower are from left, rear table, Malcolm and Ruth Gray, Stanley Brezic and Patricia Robinson and (front table) Marian Coe Brezic and June and Dick Bothwell.February 1975.

Ruth Gray was the food editor and the restaurant critic for the St. Petersburg Times. She wore hats and scarves and ducked inside the ladies room to take notes and stay inconspicuous, according to her obit.

Some restaurants had her photo on the wall in the kitchen. One server called her by name, saying the meal was on the house. She didn’t write the review.

One unlucky restaurant named its crab sandwich after her.

Gray may have been in disguise yet her name was well known. This is what she wrote when she retired: “On Feb. 28 Ruth Gray retired after 12 years as the St. Petersburg Times restaurant critic.

“Oh, did I wake you up?“ (Yes, she did.) “I just have one little question to ask. Aunt Bessie is coming for a visit, and what restaurant would you suggest for us?“ (How about Bob’s Greasy Spoon, lady?)

That’s how it is when you write a restaurant column. The questions are sure to come no matter where you are. At work, at parties, at department stores (when they see your credit card and your name) and even doctors’ offices. I once found myself confined to a hospital for a few days, and during a delicate diagnostic procedure the doctor asked me about restaurants. Next time I’ll send him a bill.”

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