When it comes to community and culinary identity, it is often the dish of a certain city that defines the people who live there. For example, consider Milwaukee and German Potato Salad. According to Milwaukee Journal food editor Peggy Daum: “If you are making German potato salad, you already know how. The right way to make it is the way your mother and grandmother made it. You may argue about it with someone down the block, but you don’t call me.” (Dennis Getto, “Daum Retiring as Food Editor,” Milwaukee Journal, Feb. 17, 1988) This was further proven when no recipe for the popular dish was included in The Best Cook…